Day Trip to Pietravairano and a Temple in the Clouds

Petravairano and the sights nearby are not in many guidebooks.  This surprised me since there is so much to see in this little town and the surrounding area.  It’s a place worth visiting - a true hidden treasure.  The village and ruins of the castle sit on top of a hill overlooking the valley below.  And if you look up just before your exit to Pietravairano, you will see the incredible Teatro Tempio San Nicola high above.  

Day Trip to Pietravairano and Tempio San Nicola by Susan Dufresne-Get-Lost-in-Italy

Located just off SS372 it is easy to get to from most areas in the Campania region, and only 1 1/2 hours from Rome.  It’s a beautiful drive through the lush vineyards and olive orchards which then turn into rolling farmland as you get closer Pietravairano.


What To Do

Grab an espresso and a pastry at one of the roadside autogrills along the way or in a local bar in town. Now that you have some caffeine in your system, it’s a good idea to drive to the Temple.  There are numerous signs leading the way but if for some reason you don’t see them, just use Google Maps or GPS.  The drive is only a few minutes outside of Pietravairano and as you get closer to your destination, you’ll think you have turned down the wrong road.  You haven’t!

Teatro Tempio San Nicola

Teatro Tempio San Nicola

There’s a lot of work going on to restore the Temple right now; they are building a visitor center at the base of the trail and I was even told that there will be a funicular for those who find it a difficult hike. The trail is located on the other side of the soon-to-be visitor center.  Make sure to wear comfortable shoes and depending on the weather, bring a jacket.  The path to the top is graveled and maintained but it can be a bit strenuous if you’re not used to hiking. With incredible views and a restored Temple, it’s well worth the effort.

Fun Fact

The full name of the temple is Teatro Tempio Monte San Nicola. In 2001, the Theatre and Temple were discovered because of a brush fire. A local historian who was also a pilot spotted it from above. Pretty fascinating! It’s still unclear if the original builders were Roman or the Samnites. Now you get to see the work being done to restore it back to it’s original glory. This article is a good source of information and some great photos of the possible final project.


Where to Eat

La Caveja is a charming and traditional Italian restaurant and albergo with stone floors, arched doorways, and beautiful gardens. Angela, the owner, was very welcoming and we received amazing service, delicious food, and a good story!

She explained that even though there is a menu, daily specials are offered to take advantage of what’s in season. Another big bonus is the wine selection which was immense. Angela’s knowledge of local wines was impressive and I ended up buying a bottle she recommended and a jar of her homemade apple marmalade.

She told us that Bill de Blasio and his family dined here just before his election as mayor of NYC. His maternal grandfather was born in Sant’Agata de’Goti - another local town. They were visiting his nonno’s birthplace and the area. He obviously has good taste in food.


The afternoon stroll

As is the tradition in Italy, it’s time for “una passaggiata” - the stroll around town. There are several sights to see in town like the Madonna del Calvario, Chiesa di Sant’Eraclio, and the Santuario di Santa Maria della Vigna. All are within walking distance in the historical center of Pietravairano.

Santuario di Santa Maria della Vigna (The Temple is on the top of the mountain in the distance)

Santuario di Santa Maria della Vigna (The Temple is on the top of the mountain in the distance)

Madonna del calvario - Mack looking around

Madonna del calvario - Mack looking around

If you have time, go see the Castello Medievale di Pietravairano. It’s a nice walk in the historic part of town and even though there are parts of the castle that are in ruin, you still get an idea of the splendor that it used to be. And again, amazing views!

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.
— Susan Sontag